| Sara SJ Kim

Hanbok Dress for Women DIY Sewing Step-By-Step Tutorial

Hello, friends!

Thank you so much for your patience!

The English Step-by-Step Tutorial for the Dailylike DIY Sewing Pattern (Korean) - Daily Hanbok Dress for Women is finally ready to share! This tutorial will help you make your very own special Hanbok using this pattern.

*Written by Sara SJ Kim from Dailylike Canada and a special thanks to Laura Lee Pak for editing.

 

The Hanbok is a traditional Korean dress for special occasions such as festivals, celebrations, and ceremonies. This pattern simplifies the traditional Hanbok into a wrap dress so that it is easier to make and wear. 

 

SUGGESTED FABRIC: This pattern works well with all seasonal fabrics. My advice is to avoid fabrics that are too stiff as they may not feel as comfortable. 

Please note! * My normally wear a size SMALL and found the final dress I made in small was tight. Choose the next size up if you prefer a looser and more comfortable fit.

 

 

 

DIFFICULTY: Intermediate

PREPARATION: Pre-wash and dry all your fabrics. This will prevent your garment from shrinking. 

 

Please read the tutorial thoroughly first. Korean patterns have some different procedures from common English patterns, such as seam allowances (SA). Very important! SA are not included in the pattern pieces! So you will need to add 1cm or 3/8" (it's up to your preference) to all edges except the folded edges (there are no SA on folded edges) and the bottom edges, which are 2cm or 3/4".

*Always finish the seam with a serger or zig zag stitch.

 

From Bodice Fabric (Add 1cm SA around the pattern)

Bodice (Front / Back) - Cut 1 pair each
Sleeves - Cut 1 pair (Add 1cm SA around the pattern and 2cm to the hem)
Neckband - Cut 1 pair
Lining - Cut 1 pair

 

From Skirt Fabric

Skirt - Cut 2 on fold (Add 1cm SA around the pattern and 3cm to the hem)

 

From Preferred Fabric

Waist - Cut 1
Upper bow strip (Short) - Cut 2
Bottom bow strip (Long) - Cut 2

 

From Light Weight Woven Fusible Interfacing  (No seam allowance (SA) needed)

Neckband - Cut 1
Lining - Cut 2

 

And you will need some cotton ribbon for inner bow strips - Cut 2

 

If you have any questions while you're sewing, please don't hesitate to contact us at hello@dailylike.ca

 

 

Let's begin! 

The sample dress in the pattern was made with Snow Flower Cotton Oxford for the Bodice and Evening Navy Cotton Oxford for the Waist and the Skirt.

I chose Bird Harmony Linen for the Bodice and the Skirt and Natural Linen for the Waist for myself as I prefer one-piece look.

Sewing Pattern: Dailylike DIY Sewing Pattern (Korean) - Daily Hanbok Dress for Women (Size S).

 

 

1. Cut pattern pieces from your chosen fabrics, transfer markings, transfer dart notches, and clip your notches!

 

*I used the fabric cut layout from the Hanbok for Girls pattern because the adult pattern is too big to show all on one photo.

 

I used the size SMALL pattern and added a 1cm (3/8") SA around all the edges, a 2cm (3/4") SA to the shoulder hems, and 13cm (5") to the skirt hems to add extra length (I like a longer skirt!).

 

 

2. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side on 1 Collar piece and 2 Lining pieces and set aside. 

 

 

3. Make the bow ribbons out of 4 cut strips. 
It's pretty much the same as making double fold bias tape except you will close one end of each strip. 

How to make a long strip out of two pieces:

 

 

How to make a double fold bias tape:

 

So now you have 4 one-side open and one-side closed ribbons. 
And you will need some cotton ribbons for the 2 inner bow ribbons. 

I used Dailylike 3Y Cotton Ribbon.

 

4. Sew darts. 

 

With the right sides facing, bring the two dart notches together, and pin so that the guidelines match.

Begin sewing from outside edge, curving slightly as it will prevent you from making a dimple of fabric at the dart apex. When you reach the dart apex, remove the needle without the backstitch. Cut the thread leaving enough length and make a small knot at the apex. I made 2 small knots to secure. And trim the thread to 1 cm.   

Sew all the darts on the front/back bodice and sleeves and press. For a vertical dart, like a waist or contour dart, press it toward the side seam; for a horizontal dart, like a bust dart, press it down toward the waist.

 

 

5. Sew the centre of bodice back by placing the right and left pieces, RST (right side together). Finish the seam with a serger or zigzag stitch and press the seam toward one side. 

 

6. Sew the shoulders of back/front bodice, RST. Finish the seam edge and press it toward the back. 

7. Pin or clip the raw edges of one shorter ribbon along the front right edges 2cm below the armhole and staystitch it in place (refer to the photo below).

 

Pin or clip the raw edges of one cotton ribbon along the left back edge 2cm below the armhole, sewing it on using a staystitch.

8. Now sew the side edges of front / back bodice RST and finish the seam edge using a serger or a zigzag stitch.

 

 

9. Sew the bodice and the waist, RST. Finish the seam edge and press it toward the waist.

And topstitch. 

 

10. Clip the other inner ribbon to the right front edge and staystitch it in place. 

Clip the other shorter ribbon to the left front edge 2cm below the neckline and one longer ribbon to the middle of waist piece.  

With the fabrics RST, align the lining with the front bodice, making sure the ribbons are between the two layers. 

 

 

Stitch and press the seam toward the lining, then topstitch the lining and the seam 0.2cm (1/8") away from the stitch. 

  

11. Fold half the sleeves in half and sew the underarm seams RST. Pressing the seam toward the back of the sleeves will help with hemming. Hem the sleeves with a 1cm (3/8") rolled hem (fold the hem 1cm twice).

12. Pin the sleeve and armhole RST, matching the underarm seam and notches. Stitch around the armhole and finish the seam. Press the seam toward the bodice.

 

 

 

14.  Now clip the markings on the skirt.

Sew one side edge of the skirt layer RST and finish the seam edge. Hem the other side edge with a 1cm (3/8") rolled hem (refer to the photo below).  

I used wonder clips to gather my pleats into neatly-spaced intervals, and of course you can use your preferred method to gather the pleats. Make sure the finished length matches the length of the bottom of the waist piece.

 

 

15. Attach the skirt to the waist RST and finish the seam edge. 

 

Press the seam towards the waist and topstitch.

16. Fold the SA of the lining and fold the lining toward the front bodice. 

Overlap the lining piece over and pin (make sure to cover the stitch line slightly). Finish by hand sewing an invisible stitch.

17. Fold and press the seam of the bottom edge of one of the neckbands. I learned this neckband method from another pattern and I found it brilliant! You can implement this method for adding collars, cuffs, etc.

Sew the top and side edges. 

 

Flip the neckband over and press. Pressing the seam allowance will help keep the flip-over easy and clean.

18. Pin and sew the neckband and the neckline of the bodice RST. Don't try to match the corners of the SA. Instead, match the soon-to-stitch line (refer to the photos below).

 

 

Make sure not to sew the folded layer. 

 

19. Place the SA between neckband layers and press. Make sure to hide the stitch line with the folded layer slightly. It will help when sewing both layers to sew from the outside. 

I didn't forget to attach my new tag! :D

   

20. Place the raw edge of another longer ribbon on the middle of the Waist aligning the side seam and staystitch.

Flip it over to the right and topstitch.

Hem the skirt to your preferred length. 
Give the finished garment a final press and you're done! 

 

 

 

 

Please take a picture and share your work with us on social media using the hashtag #womenhanbokdress and #dailylikecanada. I can't wait to see your version!

If you can suggest any edits to this tutorial, please contact me via hello@dailylike.ca. Your input is much appreciated!

 

 

Off to make another one - a modified version! :) 

 

 

All images of this tutorial are ©Dailylike Canada 2018. 

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