This step-by-step tutorial will help you follow Dailylike DIY Sewing Pattern (Korean) - No Collar Shirring Girl Dress.
This girl's dress has a waist tie on the back and a button placket on the bodice, which makes a professional yet adorable look!
SUGGESTED FABRIC: This pattern works well with woven fabrics such as Cotton 20c (quilting weight) and Cotton 30c (softer and airier than quilting weight - we call this bedding/apparel weight). My advice is to avoid fabrics that are either too stiff or too stretchy.
You will also need lightweight fusible interfacing, snap buttons, and elastic (about 17").
PREPARATION: Pre-wash and dry all your fabrics. This will prevent your garment from shrinking.
Please read the tutorial thoroughly first. Korean patterns have some different procedures from North American patterns, notably seam allowances (SA). Very important: SA are not included in the pattern pieces! So you will need to add 1cm or 3/8" to all edges except the folded edges (there are no SA on folded edges) and the bottom edges, which are 2cm or 3/4".
*Always finish seams with a serger or zig zag stitch.
From Fabric (add 1cm SA around the pattern):
Bodice Front - Cut 1 on fold
Bodice Back - Cut 1 pair
Sleeves - Cut 1 pair (add 1cm SA around the pattern and 2cm to the hem)
Lining - Cut 1 on fold
Placket - Cut 1
Waist Tie - Cut 2
Skirt - Cut 2 on fold (add 1cm SA around the pattern and 3cm to the hem)
From Lightweight Woven Fusible Interfacing (no SA needed):
Lining - Cut 1 on fold
Placket - Cut 1
*Note: I skipped the interfacing because I used a linen fabric that had enough structure without the interfacing.
And you will need 2 pieces of elastic for the elastic puff sleeves. I cut mine in 8.5" pieces and it worked well!
If you have any questions while you're sewing, please don't hesitate to contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
The sample dress in the pattern was made with Wind Cotton 30c and unfortunately this pretty pink fabric has been discontinued!
I chose my favourite Drawing Line Linen for my first trial version.
Sewing Pattern: Dailylike DIY Sewing Pattern (Korean) - No Collar Dress for Girls (size 100).
And I chose the newly released One Mind Linen for this tutorial - I hope you love it as much as I do!
1. Cut pattern pieces from your chosen fabrics, transfer markings, transfer dart notches, and clip your notches!
I used size 100 and added a 1cm (3/8") SA around all the edges, a 2cm (3/4") SA to the shoulder hems, and 2cm (3/4") SA to the skirt hems.
(The transparent fabric is my pattern tracing paper, not interfacing! )
2. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side on 1 Placket piece and 1 Lining piece and set aside.
(I skipped this step because I used a linen that has enough weight to keep the shape! If you are using cotton fabric, you should follow this step, otherwise the neckline won't keep its shape after multiple washings).
3. Make the waist ties out of 2 cut strips.
It's pretty much the same as making double fold bias tape except you will close one end of each strip.
So now you have 2 one-side open and one-side closed ties. Set the waist ties aside.
4. Sew the shoulders of back/front bodice, RST (right side together). Finish the seam edge and press it toward the back.
5. Pin or clip the raw edges of waist ties along the front side edges 1.5cm above the edge of the waist and staystitch it in place (refer to the photo below).
6. Now sew the side edges of front / back bodice RST and finish the seam edge using a serger or a zigzag stitch.
The waist ties have been attached!
7. Finish the outside of the lining with a serger or zigzag stitch.
8. Pin and sew the lining and the neckline of the bodice RST.
And clip the edges with notches to make a smoother neckline. Be careful not to cut your stitches!
7. Flip over and topstitch the lining and the seam together and press.
8. Let's make a Placket now!
Fold it in half RST and stitch both sides and flip it over using a point turner and press.
(I finished the seam at this point as the pattern says, but it's not necessary because it will be done later again.)
9. Stitch the placket and the back bodice together.
Attach the placket 0.5 cm below from the stitch of the neckline as the pattern says.
Finish the seam with all the layers together: Lining, Placket and Back Bodice.
10. Sew the centre of bodice back by placing the right and left pieces RST leaving the placket area open (refer the the photo below).
Separate the seam and press!
Tada: halfway through, almost!
11. Fold the sleeves in half and sew the underarm seams RST. Finish the seam. Pressing the seam toward the back of the sleeves will help with hemming.
Finish the seam of the bottom edge of the sleeve. We will hem the sleeves with a 2.5 cm (1") rolled hem to make a tunnel for the elastic.
Leave an opening of a few inches to make an entrance for the elastic. My elastic is 8.5" long.
I find it helpful to use a safety pin to push the elastic through the tunnel.
Stitch the sides of the elastics together.
12. Pin the sleeve and armhole RST, matching the underarm seam and notches. Stitch around the armhole and finish the seam. Press the seam toward the bodice.
14. Sew the side edges of the skirt RST and finish the seam edge.
Use your longest stitch to make the shirring (alternatively, you can use your own method to make the shirring). Make sure the finished length matches the length of the bottom of the bodice.
Attach the bodice to skirt RST and finish the seam edge. Press the seam toward the bodice.
From the outside, topstitch along the bottom of the bodice.
Finish the bottom edge of the skirt using a serger or a zigzag stitch.
Hem the skirt to your preferred length.
Attach snap buttons on the placket.
Give the finished garment a final press and you're done!
Please take a picture and share your work with us on social media using the hashtag #nocollarshirringgirldress and #dailylikecanada. I can't wait to see your versions!
If you can suggest any edits to this tutorial, please contact me via email@example.com. Your input is much appreciated!
*Written by Sara SJ Kim from Dailylike Canada and a special thanks to Laura Lee Pak for editing.
All images of this tutorial are ©Dailylike Canada 2019.